Three weeks in Sri Lanka (Part 2)

Read the first part here.

Fifth hiking day: Trainspotting (23.10.)

Map

Download track. Always check current track conditions, since they can change rapidly. I do not guarantee correctness.

As usual, we got up early. Yet, we were in no rush to get started: Already during breakfast, it was raining. We waited for a bit, but the rain didn’t subside.

We put on our ponchos and left the hotel at 07:45. Today was going to be a long hike, as we were planning to complete the full fifth stage, followed by the first half or so of the sixth stage. (I forgot why we decided that.) This brought us to a total of about 21.5 km (see also stats below), during most of which it was raining.

Onwards!

Instead of the typical tea plantations that we had seen in earlier stages—and that you would expect on the Pekoe Trail—, here, we passed many rice paddies. The dogs we encountered that day appeared to be more aggressive than usual. At some point we realised that they might just be barking at the monkeys, who were probably messing with the dogs, mischiveous as they are.

Speaking of fauna: Passing by, I witnessed a villager picking a leech from her leg. I greeted her and showed her my leech bites; they were sort of obvious because of the stains on my trousers anyway. She seemed concerned. I realised that the locals probably have a smarter leech strategy. Instead of trying to barricade your skin (the leeches will find the weak spot anyway), they would wear skirts or shorter trousers. That way, they can see and remove those lil’ suckers before they bite. Just make sure not to stand for too long in one spot while tending to your legs, since those pieces of shit are fast. Like, you wouldn’t believe how fast.

Side note on leeches

Harry Williams, writing in Ceylon Pearl of the East (1955) about leeches:

The land leech, happily, dislikes the low country plains of the dry zone and is found only in the damp vegetation and on the edges of swamps. […] It has no legs but possesses a sucker at one end, on which it can erect the whole length of its body which waves about, the four eyes in the thin end searching for oncoming prey. When the creature wishes to move, which it can do at considerable speed, it progresses in a series of loops, using its nose to balance upon while heaving its bulk forward. Having seen its victim, the advance of a leech is a revolting sight. Their strength is that they are not seen or heard—they advance under cover of vegetation and their progress makes no noise at all—and having fastened themselves to their victim, man woman, child or any kind of beast, they can slip through any protective covering. Their initial bite is not noticed, and indeed they often drink their fill of blood and roll off, distended balls, without being noticed. But if one should see them and strike them off, they leave their teeth behind and the result is certain to be a poisoned bite. A lighted match applied to them causes them to curl up, one hopes in agony, and depart, taking their teeth with them.

See also another blogger’s account of dealing with those bastards.

Despite all that, the trail was quite nice. We even encountered some Choon Pan in the middle of nowhere, but sadly, it did not have the samosas we craved on offer. (There weren’t many other people—yet alone tourists—on the trail.)

At around the four-hour mark, i.e. noon, we arrived in Watagoda. By that time, we must’ve had four or five cycles of removing and putting on our rain jackets again. Looking like drowned rats, we had lunch at a small restaurant near the train station.

As we were eating, we considered our options. Arriving in Watagoda completed the fifth stage, but we had still a few kilometers to go. We could’ve also taken the train to reach our destination.

Despite the poor weather, we opted for the hike. And boy, was that a good decision. Because shortly after starting the sixth stage, the real fun began. And with real fun, of course I mean trains.

Because, you see, unbeknownst to us, we had gotten closer to the scenic Kandy—Ella railway line, also known as the Main Line. The guide doesn’t mention it, but this is primo trainspotting territory.

The railway tracks around Watagoda are very curvy. And the Pekoe Trail directly passes by this stretch.

That day, we had hit the jackpot. Delay had built up during the day, so a lot of the trains had to meet and/or wait in Watagoda station. (There are mostly just single tracks.¹)

Armed with the RDMNS app, we could see three trains (four, if you count the one we saw in the station while passing by). We waved, and the passengers waved back (both frantically).

Another specialty is that the Pekoe Trail not just crosses the railway line occasionally, but also literally follows it. That is normal; all the locals do it.

In fact, as we had reached a viewpoint, we saw a little boy casually walking on the tracks, seemingly not minding the train approaching behind him. (As opposed to the train passengers, waving frantically at him only earned me a blank stare.) Eventually, the boy stepped away from the tracks, with plenty of seconds to spare.

It was on that day that I understood just why the trains in Sri Lanka blow their horn so frequently.

By the way: One particular hairy bend there is called the Soda Bottle Curve, although I can’t really figure out why. The name appears to have been around since at least 1895.

Arriving in Talawakenne, we turned away from the trail to find our accommodation for the night. There, we followed our usual routine of removing shoes and any other dirty clothes as far outside as possible. Settling in, we didn’t do too much else given that our today’s hike was longer than usual.

Stages	5 and 6
Start (actual)	Pundaluoya
End (actual)	Talawakele
Elapsed time	6:40
Moving time	5:30
Distance	21.5 km
Ascent	750 m

Sixth hiking day: Manager says no (24.10.)

Map

Download track. Always check current track conditions, since they can change rapidly. I do not guarantee correctness.

As usual, we started bright and early. We copied an earlier strategy and went to some place that was open and asked for breakfast. Like last time, it worked perfectly.

We also had another quest: The night before, my wife’s slippers broke. Fortunately, we found some in town. (She wouldn’t be needing them during the day, but it’s easier to look for stuff when you’re not already tired after a long hike.)

Today’s hike brought us mostly along tea estate roads. There was no overgrown jungle like in the days before. As the guide writes:

Once you leave Thalawakele behind the trail is delightful. The elevation changes are perfectly manageable and the trail weaves its way up, down, and across small valleys connecting little hamlets. This part feels like a fairy tale, a bit like “The Shire” in Lord of the Rings or the Cotswold Way in England.

It’s true. But bear in mind that after a few days, the trail can also get a bit repetitive. That doesn’t mean that we didn’t like it: the opposite. But let’s just say, I believe we’ve seen a decent amount of tea plantations.

The weather was so-so: only short bursts of rain, but appearing just fast enough that we couldn’t put on our rain jackets in time.

Once more, we passed a bunch of tea factories. Crystler seemed interesting; the entryway was bustling with workers. We were curious and approached the factory. Vivi asked if we could take a look:

Can we see inside?

—Manager says it is not allowed.

My wife, ever the negotiator:

Are you the manager?

—No.

Well, there was an attempt. (Many tea factories can be visited and the tea tried out, but often we were just too early.)

The end point of the sixth stage is the town of Kotagala. There—for the first time during the trail—we passed by a tea plantation that was being plucked. Kotagala also has a trains tation, but we continued towards Hatton on the seventh stage of the Pekoe Trail.²

Unlike the day before, we didn’t get as lucky seeing trains. When we had almost reached Hatton, we spotted a tunnel entrance. The Singimale Tunnel, at a length of 562 metres, is the second-longest in Sri Lanka.³ We were there at just the right time for a service from Kandy to Ella.

While we were standing at the viewpoint, locals went in and came out of the tunnel. It is a shortcut between Hatton and Kotagala.⁴ I strongly, strongly, advise against doing that. If you don’t know what you’re doing, you will die. The tunnel’s clearance is pretty slim, so when the train comes, you’ll have to find a nook and/or cranny.

Don’t do it.

Our hotel was on a hill to the Northeast of the town centre. It was pretty nice, albeit probably not as nice as their slogan Citadel of Nobility might indicate. We arrived there quite early; already at noon.

A bit later, we were reunited with our suitcase that had been delivered from Kandy. A strange moment, for it meant we had successfully completed just shy of 100 km of more or less walkable trail across central Sri Lanka. Refreshed and requipped, we ventured to Hatton downtown.

In town, we had only a few tasks:

• Print the train tickets to Ella that we bought only three days prior.
• Eat, preferably in a restaurant with a menu.
• Buy an umbrella for me (for future use).

We had Kottu for dinner, a typical Sri Lankan dish. The main idea is that you cut roti into small pieces and throw it in a pan together with veggies or meat. So far, so normal. Then, the waiter offered us “Dolphin Kottu”. For a second, they had us thinking that this is Kottu with … well, dolphin meat? But it just uses a different type of bread and contains yogurt or cheese. Vivi tried it; I stuck with the regular, non-sea-mammalian one.

When we arrived back at the hotel, the hosts offered to prepare English breakfast tomorrow. We went back and forth for a bit, then they suggested a Sri Lankan breakfast instead, which was much preferred. They were surprised by our choice. (Maybe we should’ve just asked for Sri Lankan at Glenloch.)

Satisfied, we went to sleep.

Stages	6 and 7
Start (actual)	Talawakele
End (actual)	Hatton
Elapsed time	5:45
Moving time	4:15
Distance	16.6 km
Ascent	720 m

Ella, Elle L’a (25.10.—27.10.)

It was a super rainy and windy night and morning. Because we are very smart, we brought our clothes back in, but forgot the hiking shoes outside. Needless to say that they didn’t dry very much.

Our train wouldn’t be leaving before lunch, so we had a relaxed morning with an excellent breakfast and plenty of tea. As we went to the train station, it started raining again. But today, no hike, so no problem.

As I mentioned in the first part, we booked the expensive tourist train from Hatton to Ella. We arrived at the train station way too early, given that our train had accumulated a good hour of delay. Funnily enough, the prior train was also delayed, so we could’ve theoretically caught that one, but without a guaranteed seat. Since the ride would be at least four hours, we decided to not risk it.⁵

Onboard!

Because the Pekoe Trail (as we hiked it) goes opposite the direction of the train for a bit, we could now do the inverse “trainspotting” from the days before. The train went through the Singimale Tunnel, and made its way through Kotagala, Talawakele, the Soda Bottle Curve, and Watagoda. Then it turned east, away from the trail.

The train ride was chill (thanks also to the air-con). We chatted a lot with other passengers; or rather, I did, since my wife is not the talkative kind. We met a diverse range of people:

• a group of Austrians going on an Ayurveda retreat, negotiating the correct pickup location with their driver;
• a middle-aged English–Irish couple, happy to chat about Belfast;
• some Indians living in London, just enjoying beers on the train.

What they had in common was that they all seemed very interested in our leech experience.

The train stopped multiple times and the conductors made sure to tell passengers about any sights. We could even get off and on a few times, although the time was hardly enough to snap a few photos. (Not complaining, though; I think it was nice!)

We arrived around 17:00 at Ella—the station bustling with activity—in the middle of lots more tourists. Our host thankfully picked us up by tuktuk and made us feel very welcome. Their buffet-style family restaurant was nearby, so we could enjoy the evening without having to go back into town.

Final task for today was to pack up our dirty filthy laundry for cleaning. Our host arranged everything for us; I just felt bad about how poorly some of those clothes smelled.

Start	Hatton
End	Ella
Train number	11141
Departure (scheduled)	11:45
Arrival (scheduled)	15:47
Seat class	Air-conditioned first class

Ella Rock

The next day (26.10.), breakfast was served with a view. Our homestay was located outside the centre, up a little hill.

Just while we were discussing what to do today, we received our laundry back in the morning. The hiking clothes were restored to (almost) mint condition.

So we did what had to be done. One rest day ought to be enough for everyone, right?

Map

Download track. Always check current track conditions, since they can change rapidly. I do not guarantee correctness.

We started hiking towards Ella Rock, a peak of about 1350 metres. The easiest way to reach it from our accommodation was to, you probably guessed it, use the railway tracks until Kithal Ella. As we reached the tracks, we immediately heard a train horn and the locals gestured us to wait besides the track. We duly complied, then followed the tracks. Following the tracks behind the train in the opposite direction was a railway worker with a big wrench, fastening the bolts.

This was the first time when we saw a substantial number of other people on the trail. Maybe that was caused by the super nice weather, absence of leeches, solid paths, and great views? Also, the infrastructure is just better: as you get closer to Ella Rock, many vendors offer juices, soft drinks, and snacks. Definitely a hike that you could do totally unplanned.⁶ (Keep in mind that there are many small paths leading up to the mountain. It doesn’t really matter which one you take.)

We reached the peak after a little over an hour and could enjoy the sun (as did some stray dogs that straggled behind the hikers). Various signs on the trail pointed out that tickets are required; the booth is immediately next to the main viewpoint.

Now, we found ourselves having the same discussion as in the morning. It was barely past 09:00, so we still had the whole day ahead of us.

Vivi realised that we’ve actually been hiking the fifteenth stage of the Pekoe Trail in reverse (normally, it would end in Ella).

So we did what had to be done. We reprogrammed our watches to direct us to the start of the stage, and off we went.

This stage is picturesque. It passes by viewpoints, waterfalls, eucalyptus forests, and a forest monastery. Curiously, we also saw a housing development in the middle of the forest.

We reached Makulella quickly and jumped into the next bus that would bring us back to Ella.

Stage	15
Start (actual)	Ella
End (actual)	Makulella
Elapsed time	2:35
Moving time	2:10
Distance	8.7 km
Ascent	600 m

The bus ride—as our previous one—was exciting. The drivers seem to have a spiritual connection to their Swiss colleagues, sharing the enthusiasm of going around hairpin bends as fast as they can get away with.

The conductor told us to change in Bandarawela into another bus. We did not comply and hopped out at Kinigama to take a (commuter) train instead.

We grabbed some samosas for lunch and sat down to wait.

As the train pulled into the station, Vivi ran down the train, trying to find a passenger carriage. But the conductor, looking out from the carriage directly behind the engine, waved us into his guard car.

Naturally, the train was delayed, waiting for opposing traffic. The bus would’ve been much faster. But boy, did we have a good time.

The guard entertained us almost the entire 45 minutes we spent crawling along the tracks. He asked us if we want to have our picture taking leaning out of the train. I was very sceptical, but he told us the exact locations where you could lean without getting hit by trees, stones, or a tunnel wall. A little later, a French passenger joined our jamboree.

We left the train in Kithal Ella and walked the remaining way back to our homestay. (The conductor advised that we had about half an hour before another train would come on the tracks.)

We showered, changed, and went to town. One of our remaining tasks was to organise our onwards journey to Batticaloa and beyond.

We couldn’t figure out the long-distance bus system, so started to shop around for a shared taxi. Sadly, those were only available towards the south coast. After a bit of haggling we found a good deal for a private taxi.

Additionally, we extended our stay in Ella for one night (new departure: 28.10.), booked our stay in Batticaloa, rail tickets from there onwards, and plane tickets.⁷ What a productive Sunday, right?

But we weren’t finished yet.

Cooking class

Of course, a cooking class. It took place in a hut, with a large clay oven as centrepiece. Together with the chef and his assistant, we prepared a few signature Sri Lankan dishes (see pictures). Among them:

• Coconut roti
• Coconut sambal
• Papadam
• Devilled Potatoes
• Dal
• Pumpkin curry

I love coconut, so it was fascinating to see how they are prepared fresh. For example, how to make coconut milk: You just put the coconut flakes into water … I also saw a coconut scraping device for the first time.

Another day, another hike

Map

Download track. Always check current track conditions, since they can change rapidly. I do not guarantee correctness.

The weather forecast predicted rain on Monday afternoon, so we started early. Today’s plan was the sixteenth stage of the Pekoe Trail to Demodara, known for its railway loop.

We started from our homestay—this time, not walking on the tracks—towards the famous Nine Arches Bridge. That didn’t take very long, and once again, many more tourists were on the trail. We crossed the bridge and turned right, ascending on a hill, to continue the stage.

Only a few minutes later, we found another great viewpoint over the bridge.

According to RDMNS, that day’s Odyssey train was supposed to arrive at the bridge any moment. So, we waited. And waited.

Just as we were about to leave our position and the bridge out of sight, we heard the signature train horn. We ran back and, hey presto, the train came! (Well, it took another few minutes.)

The train approached slowly. Very slowly. Then it stopped halfway on the bridge (see picture).

Of course, it’s the Odyssey! It stops so that the passengers can step out and look around. So we didn’t manage to film a full crossing. A bit anticlimactic, but oh well.

This stage of the Pekoe Trail was largely uneventful. As we reached the end, Demodara, I was already feeling exhausted. It was hot and I was sweaty.

We sat down for a moment and had a snack. But it was only 09:00, so what were we supposed to do with the rest of the morning? My wife pointed out that we had only walked for about 10 kilometres at that point.

So, we resolved to keep going and proceeded with the seventeenth stage.

The Demodara loop, where the railway line crosses over itself, is not so spectacular. The Demodara bridge, more so (see picture). Walking on those tracks felt a bit more dangerous than usual, because you can’t just jump aside when a train approaches (no train did).

The trail followed mostly tea estate roads, so in terms of difficulty, the hike was managable. But my feet started to hurt and I was generally not in the mood to continue for much longer. After a quick negotation, we agreed to get to a total of 120 kilometres, and then leave the trail to get us back to Ella.

An hour or so after we left Demodara, we reached a small village. The plan would be similar to yesterday: find a bus stop and jump into any bus that gets us closer to Ella.

Stages	16 and 17
Start (actual)	Ella
End (actual)	A small village
Elapsed time	4:30
Moving time	3:20
Distance	14 km
Ascent	740 m

But the villagers told us that there is no bus stop here. Just when I was about to call a tuktuk driver,⁸ a young man stepped out of a building, introduced himself as the science lab assistant of the local school, and asked us in.

Naturally, all pupils from the entire school (and the other school next door) surrounded us. According to one of the teachers, that week they were studying English literature, so they were supposed to ask us questions. What happened in reality is that the pupils got way too excited for that, and we felt slightly bad about us disrupting their classes. It was a cheerful experience anyway.

Meanwhile, the lab assistant had called another tuktuk driver, his friend, to bring us to Demodara. From there we took a bus back to Ella, arriving around 13:00.

We spent the rest of the day enjoying the touristy amenities in Ella, including coffee with plant milk, fancy burgers, and a massage. Our onwards travel for a good week was already arranged, which helped me to relax. (I guess the massage also contributed!)

At our homestay, we packed up our stuff to prepare for tomorrow morning’s pickup.

Read the third part here.